The Iron Chef

It's not everyday that you meet an Iron Chef but here I was talking to Thierry Houngues, a challenger on the famed show in 1996. He was working for the Brazilian embassy at the time and originally was hesitant about the idea. 'First I said no, and so did my boss. But the show made a story. Their idea was a "rematch" because Brazil lost a soccer match to Japan in the Olympics the same year.' So oddly, Thierry, an African-born Frenchman, was representing Brazil. What was the theme? 'Caviar. On TV, you cannot always win. Me, I lost.'

Thierry's journey to Japan was a long one. Born in Togo, West Africa, Thierry moved to France when he was nine years old. After his studies he started working in a kitchen. 'It's a contradiction. In France they said it's not good to show my face in a big restaurant because I'm black. No problem for me, I like cooking. But in Japan, it was the opposite – because I'm foreign, they wanted me in the front!' His experiences in different countries have influenced his cooking. 'Of course, I have culture from Africa, culture from France and now I have to use both for Japanese people.' Not to mention, his wife is Chinese. So does he cook Chinese food? 'Not so much, I don't have time!'

I have culture from Africa, culture from France and now I have to use both for Japanese people.

Thierry moved to Kyoto in 2000, setting up in the northern area of Kitayama before moving to his current location in 2008. Le Table de Thierry is located on the ninth floor of the Takase building on Sanjo-dori, right beside the Kamo River, and is EDK's choice for Best View. (EDK's Christmas wine party was held here in 2009.) 'I prefer it here, but I have a kind of challenge. Kyoto people don't know French food. For them, French is only high quality formal food, for weddings or anniversaries. My challenge is to give French food to everybody.' It is true that most French restaurants in Kyoto – by being 'restaurants' – are formal and more expensive. Thierry laments the lack of more casual French dining choices in the city such as brasseries and bistros. What's the difference? 'Restaurants serve high quality food in small portions. Bistros are for everyone, cheap food and no dress code. The presentation is very different. And a brasserie is between a restaurant and a bistro. So that's a challenge – to open a bistro in Kyoto.'

Not surprisingly Thierry uses local ingredients. So much so that he doesn't think he would be able to cook in France anymore. 'After almost 20 years in Japan, my food is now for Japanese people – it has a Japanese taste.' But Kyotoites apparently have their preferences compared to other Japanese cities. 'You have to adjust your cooking with Kyoto vegetables because they're very sweet. And Kyoto people don't like their food too salty. My chef friend from Tokyo came once and we cooked together. People said the food was too salty!'

Yet there are some Japanese ingredients he makes a rule not to use, otherwise it simply wouldn't be French food. 'I use Japanese products but I don't mix them too much to preserve my culture. I don't use dashi (traditional soup seasoning made from fish or konbu). I don't use miso. They would change the French quality of the food.' The key is to keep the basics of French food: consomme, bouillon, jus de voile. However, Thierry has come up with some novel combinations. 'When I make a dish like chawan mushi [steamed egg custard] I don't use dashi, I use consomme. In France, we have something like tempura called beignet. But I don't use water, I use beer. I also make carpaccio. What is that? Sashimi. But I use a mix of balsamic vinegar and soy sauce. Caprese as well. Instead of cheese, I use tofu.'

Technicalities aside, the best roast chicken I've ever had in Japan was Thierry's. It was simple, succulent, no-frills roast chicken. 'Growing up in France, every Sunday after church we buy chicken, go home and eat with fried potatoes. Japanese chicken tastes good, but they don't roast well. Why? Because they have too much water. Me, I use French chickens.' Although Iron Chef challenger Thierry Houngues has cooked for ambassadors and at hotels, you can tell his heart is in his roast chicken. His pet idea is to be a roast chicken vendor. 'I have two roast machines. I want to put one in a car and drive around.' What better way to give French food to the people!

Le Table de Thierry is located on Sanjo on the southside just east of Kiyamachi. Minutes from Keihan Sanjo station. See their profile Here

Tel/fax: 075-212-0069 Lunch: 11:30-2pm / Dinner: 6pm-9pm, Closed Mondays (if Monday is a National Holiday, the restaurant is open and closed Tuesday.)