Kyoto is located in a basin surrounded by mountains on three sides. This scenic topography makes for rather extreme climate: cold and dry in the winter and hot and humid in the summer. One way Kyotoites have escaped the heat is at kawa-yuka (川床 river dining) by the Kamo river. The breeze from the river provides relief, and just looking at the water and mountins in the background has a soothing effect. From May to September, some 90 restuarants from Nijo dori in the north to Gojo dori in the south build raised platforms alongside the Kamo river where you can dine. Whereas in the past kawayuka restaurants served Kyo-ryori (traditional Kyoto cuisine), nowadays you can dine at cafes and eat cuisines from around the world.
Besides the Kamo river, there are actually three other areas that feature summer river or verandah dining: Kibune in the north, Takao in the west and Takagamine in the northwest. In these areas, kawayuka is pronounced kawadoko
Kawayuka is officially called Noryo-yuka 納涼床 and the custom began in the Edo period, a peaceful time that saw a growth in the middle classes as well in the entertainment arts. Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the warrior who helped unite the country in the late 16th century, initiated projects along the Kamo river such as the rebuilding of the bridges at Sanjo and Gojo dori. The riverside became a focal point of activity in the city, with exhibitions, kabuki dances, and tea houses being set up. Wealthy merchants bought their own seats at these establishments to watch the festivities, particularly around the weeks leading up to the Gion festival.
From the Kambun era (1666-1671), the Kamo riverside took further shape as a leisure spot in Kyoto. Stone embankments were built and official hana-gai (Geisha districts) were established nearby such as Ponto-cho and Miyagawa-cho. Furthermore, Minami-za and Kita-za (literally, north and south) theatres were built along Shijo dori, steps from the river. By the mid-Edo period, some 400 tea shops had set up kawayuka.
At that time, kawayuka was referred to "Kawara no Suzumi" (literally, "Cooling by the River"), an umbrella term for any kind of seating by the river. Tea houses would set up stools by the riverbank or, as you can see today, build verandahs overhanging the embankments.
By the Meiji period (1868-1912), kawayuka became a standard practice in July and August. The riverbed between Takemuraya bridge (north of Shijo dori) and Donguri bridge (just south of Sanjo dori) became the centre of activity, and kawayuka were set up on both east-west sides of the river. However, with the canalisation projects of 1894 and the construction of the the Keihan railway station at Sanjo dori in 1915, kawayuka began to disappear. Due to the frequent flood prevention projects at the time, the river current became much stronger lead to an official ban on kawayuka. This projects eventually lead to the creation of Misogi canal that runs parallel to the Kamo river. Although raised river dining platform were built above this new waterway, these were either permanent structures or roofed buildings, not the temporary kawayuka we see today.
The Kamo riverside suffered further in the beginning of the Showa period (1926-1989). Semi-permanent flooring was prohibited in 1930 and a series of natural disasters devastated the area, namely the Muroto typhoon of 1935 and the torrential rains of the following year which washed away the remaining kawayuka structures. Later repairs have resulted in the structures we see today.
Finally, the second period of suffering came in the form of the war. Restrictions on business and frequent blackouts decimated the restaurant business by the river. Recovery finally came after the war with the "Noryo Kyoka Suijun" law of 1954, aiming to rebuild the scenery by the river. Now, kawayuka restaurants serve not only Kyo-ryori (Kyoto-style cuisine) but also Western and Asian foods, and the kawayuka custom has continue to the younger traditions.
