Though modcern development in Kyoto is a serious threat to the preservation of machiya, it is still possible to find entire rows of these beautiful old townhouses in historical preservation areas, such as Gion and Nishijin, and in the backstreets of other parts of the city. Some of the better examples are now protected by law and in 2009, machiya made the World Monuments Fund Watch List as a cultural heritage site deemed at risk. However, machiya now seem to be experiencing something of a renaissance – they are being revitalised as restaurants, cafes, bars, galleries, guesthouses, boutiques and even hair salons – all over the city.
Below are some dining recommendations for experiencing machiya life in modern Kyoto. Note: Some linked pages are only in Japanese.
Machiya in Gion
Cafe Bibliotic Hello!
Surely the only machiya in Kyoto with banana trees in front! Cafe Bibliotic Hello is a very cosy café with a wood-heater stove, large communal table, floor to ceiling bookshelf of magazines and art books, and a drink and snack menu catering to all tastes and times of day. The sister machiya next door has also been renovated in a modern style and is now Halo Galo – a gallery and shop.
SAYURA Vins Fins
Quite possibly the most elegant wine bar you'll ever encounter in Japan, Sayura is located right in the heart of the Gion Geisha district. Blink and you'll miss its extremely modest entrance - marked only by a large wine glass at the door. However, once inside and seated you'll appreciate not only the wine, but the extremely sophisticated interior. The long counter bar is a sleekly polished single piece of wood which ends in a view looking out onto a modern Japanese-style garden. The wine list is extensive and very reasonable considering the exclusive Kyoto location.
Urume うるめ
West of the Daitokuji Zen temple complex on busy Kitaoji-dori (between Shinmachi and Horikawa) is Urume, a soba (buckwheat noodle) restaurant. Run by a friendly young couple, this machiya restaurant has a modest façade and simple interior but their soba is fresh and servings are generous. Blink and you’ll miss their small shop sign, so look out for a blue noren (door curtain).
Kyoto Nama Chocolat Organic Tea House
In a large old Kyoto machiya with a quaint garden, just a few streets east of the Heian Jingu shrine, is the Kyoto Nama Chocolat Organic Tea House. Famous for their fresh soft chocolate (flavoured with Austrian herb liqueur, Okinawan shochu or Matcha) and delicious vegetarian lunch sets of soba-flour pancakes and tofu veggie burgers.
Ratna Café ラトナカフェ
Proving that machiya can be multicultural and keep their Kyoto character, Ratna Café offers delicious South Indian cuisine in a modern and award-winning restoration. Great for a curry lunch set with chai or lassi.
Kushikura 串くら
Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), as well as seafood and vegetable options, are served in a tastefully restored old Kyoto house. You can choose tatami-mat seating, a private room upstairs, or sit at the counter and watch all the action as the chefs grill away. Yakitori portions are larger than normal, and you’re guaranteed to find something you like on the menu. Great for larger groups as well.
Machiya near Yasaka shrine, Gion
El Fogon
El Fogon serves authentic Iberian cuisine in an elegantly restored machiya; step inside to experience a little piece of Spain in central Kyoto. With a tapas bar downstairs and fine dining upstairs, El Fogon is great for either a quick drink with friends at the bar (until 3am on weekends) or a special occasion.
Scorpione Gion
Thoroughly chic Scorpione offers Italian food served kaiseki-style in a former teahouse in the heart of Gion. Nibble on elegant morsels with chopsticks as you soak up the exclusive atmosphere of Gion. Table and tatami-mat seating with garden views.
Manzara-tei Restaurants まんざら亭
Of the six locally-owned restaurants with the Manzara-tei name, four are in renovated machiya: Manzara-tei honten (main branch), Ponto-cho, Nishiki, and Gion. The bustling Nishiki branch is more casual and has friendly English-speaking staff. Dimly-lit and tastefully decorated, Manzara-tei restaurants offer traditional Japanese cuisine at prices that don’t break the bank.
Sarasa Mange
Sarasa Mange さらさ Mange
Sarasa's group of five hip cafes in Kyoto have a loyal following. Sarasa Nishijin is listed by EDK as the "Best Unique Interior" in Kyoto. The newest addition is Sarasa Mange in central Kyoto. We think it is head and shoulders above the rest in terms of food. Here, you'll find decent portions of the freshest seafood and local vegetables, all satisfying the hungriest of appetites. And of course, it's in a lovely rennovated machiya, which always adds to the experience.
